Hong Kong Diaries: How to Spend 4-days in the City And Still Want More

This year’s Easter trip was a little different. Usually done as a throuple or at least as a couple with my girlfriends, I was left a little flat when I found out that I was about to have no trip at all.

But a little bit of brainstorming and a couple of pillow consultations later, an idea came to mind: I want to explore solo travelling again. I hate the idea that because you have nobody to go out with, you just stay put at home. One deserves to find fun, even if you chase it yourself.

The idea started simply: a diving trip. And then evolved further, a stop over in Hong Kong to get to destination meant now I was having a diving trip AND a city trip. Chaos, my favourite.

Initially started as a quick 2-night stay in the city. That’s enough time, they said. But quickly I realised that it was not going to be enough. I changed my flight and extended my trip to 4 nights and 5 days. Let me tell you, it was still not enough, but I loved it either way!

What to do in the city for that long? Let me tell you.

Arrival on Saturday: Half Day Excitement Into Night Delights

My flight from London Heathrow was close to 13hrs, landing me in Hong Kong at around 3pm on Saturday. I love that first feeling you get when you step foot in a new city, let alone a new continent. The smell is different, the heat is high, the humidity is heavy, and I adore it.

I hadn’t even gotten to my hotel and I was already indulging on an Egg Custard tart, a must try in Hong Kong. Although it is original from its neighbouring island in Macau, who in turn, learnt it from the Portuguese.

Few tips on arrival: get an Octopus card. This will work as your disposable wallet. Your public transport fares, and even private taxis can be paid with it, and so can all your expenses at 7eleven or small venues. Works great if you don’t have cash and can be “refilled”.

My choice of hotel was Y Hotel in Sheung Wan and it was a good one. Location wise it was great, close to all the cool bars, shops and restaurants in the area, but not in the thick of it. The rooms were clean, comfy and spacious and the price was just right (60-70GBP approx per night), I thought.

You may think that since this was arrival day it would have been a chilled one but if you know me you know that would never be the case. A quick shower and a change of clothes and off we went into discovering Sheung Wan. First order of the evening: shopping! There were a few places I wanted to check out and none of them disappointed: Pabe Pabe for the IT bag you didn’t know you needed, PMQ to get lost in little boutiques of local vendors across a multi-story building and Goods of Desire as a staple for cool souvenirs and clothes that will remind you of being there. Of course, it wouldn’t be me without stopping at a vintage shop. My favourite: The Hula.

15 minutes further (by foot) got me to the Henderson Building for my first cocktail of the holiday, at nowhere else other than The Peridot. A building designed by Zaha Hadid architects did not disappoint, although it came with some unexpected surprises along the way. More on it here.

2 cocktails later and a quick taxi ride onto my dinner table at Ho Lee Fook, the hottest restaurant in the area, and I can see why. The decor is decadent and cool. Flashy but unpretentious, sexy. The food is on par. I loved every single dish and left full. My favourites were the razor clams, the chongqing chicken and the short rib. The sommelier was also very good at recommending a wine to pair my meal with, and most wines are Chinese, which was a nice surprise.

To finish the night with a bow, I ended up having a massage at a nearby parlour. A dream before I had even gotten to my real bed.

Sunday FunDay

Sunday is the day of rest they say, and I like spending it nurturing my mind with culture. After a delicious Dim Sum at the beloved Sun Hing restaurant, we ventured off to M+ museum. A mammoth of a building, filled with contemporary art, local and international. At the time they had a terrific exhibition about Chinese art, alongside a retrospective of Lee Bul. You can easily spend a couple of hours, if not more, so plan accordingly. A few steps away you also have the Hong Kong Palace, which you can also visit.

After my culture fix though, I decided to visit Sham Shui Po. I was captivated by  the quirkiness of this neighborhood. A mixture of old and new: Apliu St turns into a market where you can find anything and everything tech related. From an old super Nintendo, to the latest smart TV. Then you’ve got a selection of cutsie little shops: vintage shops, book shops, coffee shops, all scattered around Nam Cheong St, Tainan St and Maple St. Some of my favorites included Midway (for gifts), Hunter (for books), Sing Jai Kee (for vintage) and Cofflow (for coffee). If you are in the area, going to the Kung Wo Beancurd Factory is also a must. After a long walk I retreated myself to the hotel, only to venture out to the Ladies Market for dinner, but I must say if you are tired, skip it. Neither the Ladies market nor Mongkok night markets are what they just to be 10 years ago. They feel made for tourist and overrun with trinkets. There is nothing there I’d buy for myself and the food is subpar considering everything you can get in the city. A shame really, as I use to love having food outdoors in the middle of the street at night.

Monday Exploring China Borders: Shenzhen for a Day

A decide to sneak out to China for a day, and you can read how it went here. I would certainly make the time for it, if you can.

Tuesday Toned Down Goodbye

Whilst I am a city girl, I enjoy going on hikes, and HK certainly has a few to enjoy. The closest one without leaving the city is a hike around The Victoria Peak. Depending on how much you want to exercise, you can do it all the way from Central. However, if you want to make the experience a little extra special, I’d recommend you taking the tram to the peak, and spend more time exploring the peak. There’s a variety of walks you can take from there, from 45 minutes to a couple of hours, and you’ll get excellent views of the city and its skyline from there. Beware, there’s a massive mall once you reach the top, so don’t spend too much time in it or you’ll lose track of time! Good to grab a snack there before you head on your exploration, but I’d say skip otherwise.

After a very rewarding hike, I head home to switch outfits before treating myself to my last meal, this time at Duddell’s.

The main dining room is a Michelin-starred experience, but the upstairs lounge area is where the fun is at. The Upper Room offers a Garden Terrace, an all-day dim sum menu, and their infamous Sunday brunch (which expands to Monday) with free-flow champagne. What else you could ask for?

I almost had a hear attack when I realised I booked for the wrong day and told me they were closed for a late night function, but they were kind to allow me to have an almost private dining experience as the last customer of the day before closing. The cocktails are spectacular, their peking pie one to try, and the scallop dumplings a must. Top notch experience from start to finish, I’ll be back.

Things were coming to a close, and I really didn’t want to leave. My last eve was spent with Kan taking a stroll through his favorite spots across Sheung Wan, and Mongkok, including a super cute old school HK café, where I got to try their milk tea and a dangerously yummy French toast.

To wrap things up in true romance, I took the Star Ferry from TST back to Central while the light show was happening (you can catch it most days at 8pm, and it’s best seen from TST side). Hong Kong was doing its absolute best to make sure I wouldn’t forget it. It worked, I’ll be back.

TCB xx

Tubbataha Reef Park: Divers Paradise for Coral Lovers

I don’t know if I ever told you, but once a year, my girlfriends and I disappear. No agenda, no compromises, just a place that ticks all our boxes: culture, nature, good food, great company. Over the years we've made it through Mexico, Panama, Thailand, Philippines, Egypt and Turkey. Not bad for a group of girls who just really love a good trip.

This year however, life had other plans. One by one, Easter commitments piled up and the group trip quietly fell apart. I was gutted, but then I got myself thinking: when was the last time I went somewhere entirely on my own terms?

The answer came quickly. I wanted to dive, and I wanted to go back to where it all began: The Philippines.

My first ever experience diving was in Apo Reef in the Philippines. Little did we know when my girlfriends and I were putting on our dive gear for the first time, that we were about to dive in one of the top diving spots of the world. That was going to set high expectations for the rest of our diving adventures. I went down under, and what I saw was incredible, yet I came up so full of fear of what may happen that I almost never dived again.

Thankfully my partner is a much risk taker than I am, and through a few more tries, it has now become a much needed part of my life. Being underwater makes me feel so alive, so calm, and so happy. I sometimes wish I could be there more often! And so when the opportunity arise to go back to where it all started I didn’t think it twice. I was going back to Philippines, and this time to the real gem of the country: Tubbataha National Reef Park. One of the most remote and protected reefs on the planet, nestled in the middle of the Philippine Sea. A place most people have never heard of, and even fewer have seen.

Buckle up, this is my story.

What is Tubbataha?

Nestled in the middle of the Sulu Sea, Tubbataha hosts around 75% of all the coral in the world. It is a protected marine park and a national treasure. You can only access it by liveaboard — a diving boat where you stay for the entire trip — during a limited window of mid-March to mid-June. Spaces are scarce, so if this is on your list, start planning early.

Getting there

Flying into Puerto Princesa is easy from Manila, with several airlines to choose from. One important thing to factor in: you will need an extra day in Puerto Princesa after returning to land (you must not fly for 24hrs after your last dive) so don't plan a tight connection. Build it into your itinerary and treat it as part of the adventure. I did, and it was fabulous. I ended up having a fantastic beach day in Honda Bay, island hopping and soaking up the sunshine at Cowrie Island, followed by a delicious meal in town (try Kalui for seafood, you won't regret it) and a massage at one of their 24/7 parlours. Dreamcare Wellness did the job beautifully.

Choosing your liveaboard

Let me tell you, choosing a liveaboard is not easy! This was my first time and I was unsure of what to look for: luxurious? Mid-range? Cheap and cheerful? You don't want to go too low at the expense of your safety, but also not so high that the vibe doesn't feel right.

As a female solo traveller I wanted privacy but also the opportunity to connect with likeminded people. Liveaboard.com is a great starting point and their customer service is excellent. After a few enquiries I landed on the MV Dolphin. I was a little nervous because the reviews were mixed, but the boat had been recently refurbished (and changed of owners), and I loved the idea of small dive groups no more than 6 divers per instructor and a maximum of 18 guests on board.

On budget: expect to pay around £2,000 for a solid mid-range experience, which is what I did and I have zero regrets. You can go up to £5,000 for top-end luxury, or find options around £1,500, though I'd be cautious about quality at that price point. For a trip this remote and this special, mid-range is the sweet spot.

Do you have the experience for this?

Tubbataha is not intimidating, but it does ask something of you. I'd recommend having at least 40-50 dives under your belt before going. Advanced Open Water certification is ideal, as you'll want to be comfortable diving to 30 metres and handling drift dives and changing currents out in open sea. No night dives are involved. They're not permitted in the park and the currents can shift too much, so that's one less thing to worry about.

If you're a nervous diver who nearly gave it all up after your first experience (hello, that was me), you can absolutely do this. Just make sure you've put in some practice before hand and you can have fun with it too. The sea will surprise you in the best possible way.

What to pack — and what I'd do differently

A few things I learned the hard way so you don't have to:

I always get cold underwater, and water temperatures here sit around 29 degrees at the surface — lovely — but drop 4-5 degrees as soon as you hit 20 metres, especially with the currents. Bring a 5mm full wetsuit. Operators typically only carry shorties, so I had to specifically request mine. Don't leave it to chance.

A dive skin suit is also worth packing. Easy to fold, adds an extra layer of warmth, and takes up almost no space in your bag.

And my most unexpected recommendation: a selfie stick. I'm always nervous about accidentally touching coral and Tubbataha has so much of it absolutely everywhere. A selfie stick lets you get close to your favourite fish and formations without the anxiety. Game changer.

What it looks like down there

Imagine a coral paradise, and then add some more. There is even moss down there, which I had never seen before. The sheer density and health of the reef is lovely, but it is the quantity and diverse variety that makes it truly special. Egypt has incredible visibility and corals, and so does Palau — but Tubbataha has a richness and abundance that feels entirely its own.

Visibility varied across dives. Go deep and it can get murky. But at 15 metres and above, on a sunny day, it is a full show in front of your eyes: yellow, red, purple, green, every colour you can think of, just alive and moving. Healthy coral as far as you can see, and life absolutely everywhere.

Each dive site is unique, although you will dive twice in the same spot, with two sites a day, which actually works in your favour. Seeing the same spot at different times of day, in different light and current, can be a different experience each time.

We saw baby sharks and nurse sharks throughout the trip. But the real magic? Whale sharks on two of our dives — the last one on our very last dive, as if saying goodbye. Cherry on top doesn't quite cover it. A family of dolphins above the surface, barracudas, triggerfish, trevally, enormous tunas. It was relentless in the best possible way.

My honest review of the MV Dolphin

There were very few in-depth reviews of this boat beyond what you find on Liveaboard.com, and that always makes me a little suspicious, as people tend to write glowing summaries without much detail. So here is my honest download:

The cabins are way more spacious than I expected. I was sharing with another girl and we had an ensuite bathroom, big beds, a little desk and enough storage for our gear. Everything was in a classic Filipino old-school wooden style which gave it real charm.

The dining area had the same warmth, and there were always snacks available. From fruit and healthy bits to cookies and crisps for when you need them. On food generally: it was tasty, generous and always covered meat, fish and vegetarian options which I appreciated. My only note is that it leaned heavily on the fried side; delicious, but a lot across several days in a row. That said, they also served ice cream, so all is forgiven.

The one thing I'd flag for anyone booking: try to get direct contact with the boat ahead of time rather than going through Liveaboard.com exclusively. Just to confirm your gear requirements and make sure everything is sorted before you board. Would have saved me a little back and forth on my wetsuit situation.

The rhythm of liveaboard life

Tubbataha is not like other liveaboards where you hop on and off islands. You stay on the boat for 6 days and 5 nights, in the middle of the ocean, and you don't get off. Four dives a day means you sleep deeply — until the boat moves overnight to reach the next dive site, which will wake you at least once. Factor that in and embrace it; the sound of the engine moving you somewhere new in the dark is oddly exciting.

Dive, eat, rest, repeat. It sounds simple because it is, and it is glorious.

On our last evening we had a BBQ on the boat followed by karaoke — a non-negotiable in Filipino culture and honestly the most endearing way to end a trip. The average age on board skewed older, but everyone was so knowledgeable and generous with their experience that I found myself wanting to talk more and more. We were lucky enough to have a couple of the boat's owners on board, including my dive buddy Kathy — caring, empathetic, and endlessly patient with the number of times we surfaced early because I was running low on air while being completely distracted by everything around us, and a little nervous of everything happening too (which eased over time, dive by dive).

It is impressive how quickly a week disappears when you are doing nothing other than exactly what you love.

I would do it all over again, and so should you.

TCB xxx

From HK to Shenzhen in 50 Minutes: Here's Why You Should

I swear in another life I was born SE Asian. The love and excitement I get this side of the pond compares to no other!

I had just been in Hong Kong for 2 days and three nights and I already knew I could stay so much longer. Especially, if visiting mainland China. The heat, the noise, the cultural difference, the fashion, the food! I wanted it all. But since I couldn’t have it all, I compromised on a quick visit to Shenzhen. Exactly the same thing I did 17 years ago when I first visited the country.

My idea of Shenzhen was that of a city of dupes. I remember visiting a huge mall where a much younger Lau was after the latest LV collection with Stephen Sprouse. They didn’t have it in stock they said, but if you come in two hours we’ll have it ready for you. And there it was, steaming hot as if just made, two hours later. That followed a visit to a Spa where we indulge into a massage and stayed the night . The morning after we came back to Hong Kong. It was all fairly easy, as I was also with some Hong Kong friends who sorted it all out.

How would it be, all this time later? And how would it be, going all by myself?

The Journey

After some research and a download from a good friend from HK, I learned that getting to the border between HK and Shenzhen has become easier than ever, especially now that the relationship between HK and mainland China has softened. A 50min ride with the East Rail Line/ MTR from Admiralty to Lo Wu and you are at the border.

You will need access to internet for pretty much anything so I had bought a Chinese e-SIM before hand. Other tips that were extremely useful were to download a good translate app as many people don’t speak English, WeChat for instant messaging with vendors and people in China, as well as Alipay International for making transactions in all shops in China, or for any other payments. I was pretty stunned by the app, which not only allows you to pay anything and everything, but also has access to public transport cards, the ability to order a local Uber (called DiDi), and much much more. All from Chinese, directly translated to the language of your choice. Oh, technology at its best.

Crossing the border was a surprisingly easy process. You will be asked to fill out a digital form, after which you’ll get a QR code. Digital prints on, and off you go.

The Arrival

luohu commercial city

What you see on arrival is very different to what Shenzhen city is today. I almost feel Lo Wu and Luohu Shopping Mall are what is left of the “dupe city” I used to know, except it is now more tired and less friendly. A lot of vendors cat calling you and very little patience for anything other than sell, sell, sell. I didn’t leave with any shopping bags this time, but the prices for what they were offering and speed at which they can provide is still very enticing.

But I was here to explore further this time, so after doing a bit of research, I went to where most locals go these days: the mix-C shopping mall. Getting a DiDi taxi was a bit of a long process due to the sheer amount of people ordering private transportation at the station, but once inside the car everything went smoothly.

The mixC mall is every shopper’s dream. I am really not a fan of shopping malls, but this was a mammoth. The biggest and the loudest, the better. A whole block only for restaurants, and very nice ones I must add. Another block only for the flagship store of Gentle Monster, which hosted an exhibition of local talent within it. Another block with local fashion, both street and luxury. The list continues. One could spend days there, and not see it all. I was speechless.

If you’d like to visit it for yourself, I recommend going for lunch to Shiheyuan (L2 Floor, Shop NL219) and try out their peking duck, it’s a must. Then venture in one of the shopping areas. I couldn’t tell you exactly where was what, I got lost a few times! But I loved stopping at most of the local Asian/ Chinese brands: from luxurious Songmont to MOF, to concept stores with many boutique-y brands that are now part of my go to like Yvmin and Monsecret (both jewellery brands).

I only had a day, so spent half of it here and then shifted gears into more cultural stuff. I had heard great things about Shenzhen Bay Culture Plaza and didn’t want to miss out on it. Locals call the museum in this plaza “the AirPods building” because of its resemblance to the ear phones and I must admit, they are not wrong.

This area was bonkers architecturally. Designed by MAD architects, it looked like you were going into a cave in space. There’s a couple of tunnels that are accessible to all and flooded with local tourists taking pictures, and a paid for museum exhibition which at the time of my visit hosted to of my favourite artists: Es Devlin and Man Ray. What a treat.

To add to it, I had a delicious ice cream after the museum closed, and just sat down and take in my surroundings. Some people enjoying walking by the riverside, others waiting for their drone to bring their food/ drink order from the sky. It was truly mesmerising.

I wanted to have more energy for one last stop: the zhongshuge bookstore, but I was done for the day.

Fourteen hours day, one border crossing, and not enough time. But then again, that's always the point. Leaves you wanting more.

TCB xx

A Bank Holiday in Madeira

Oh Madeira, you stole my heart. From the moment we set foot in this beautiful jungle adorned with levadas, black beaches and picturesque villages, I was enamoured. Madeira’s natural beauty is simply breath-taking, so much so you’ll find yourself overwhelmed by its irresistible charm.

It’s hard to believe we only visited because a friend decided to celebrate her birthday here. How grateful I am for that decision. With only 5 days to explore, I can’t wait to be back.

Are you also looking for the perfect destination for your next bank holiday escape? Look no further! Here are our plans for the ultimate getaway.

DAY 1: Soak up the morning sun with a good hike, then celebrate with wine

The best way to start they day is by hiking the highest peaks in Madeira (~1.800m height!) for sunrise. That is, from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.

You might be questioning why you should rise early on the first day of your holiday to embark on this adventure, but the answer is simple: it's nothing short of magical, especially for those with a taste for adventure. The hike, while of medium difficulty, offers breathtaking vistas of the mountains of Madeira. You will be walking in the sky! However, if you have a fear of heights, it's best to steer clear, as there are steep steps involved.

We did the hike on our own and drove to the starting point in Pico do Arieiro, then after we completed the hike we walk to Achada do Teixeira where a taxi was waiting for us to drive us back to our car (45-min drive back, and 70e later). There’s certainly other ways to do this as an organized tour, but we liked the spontaneity of just deciding when to do it.  

We were back in Funchal at around 4pm, where we treat ourselves to some delicious food and our first set of Madeira wines at Blandy’s Wine Lodge, a staple in the island that should not be missed. It is now my favorite digestif after dinner.

DAY 2: Morning Yoga in Casa de Levada followed by a day at sea

It’s a gorgeous Saturday at Casas de Levada, our beautiful stay for the long-weekend, and I couldn’t be happier. This place is gorgeous, every corner has been thought after with care and love, and it shows. Big concrete flooring is mixed with warm woods and rugs, a traditional kitchen and big windows that open up to our terrace overlooking the sea, the levadas, and the infinity pool beneath us.

After a yoga session held by one of our friends, we proceed to cook our breakfast (it’s Spanish tortilla day) before driving to the beach for today’s activity: a boat ride through the Atlantic Sea. Whale spotting, swimming and snorkelling await us, but not without some bubbles, snacks and a banging soundtrack to make it a killer day. If keen, we toured with On Tales, and they were fantastic.

After a long day at sea, there’s nothing better than coming to your hotel for aperitivo by the pool.

DAY 3: 4x4 Adventure Day Touring UNESCO Forests and Black Beaches

We thought our experiences couldn’t possibly get any better at this point, but we were wrong. All thanks to Green Devil Safaris, who generously treated us to the wildest 4x4 ride I’ve ever experienced. We roamed through cascading waterfalls, narrow cliff roads and rugged paths (watch out for those who have back problems, this is a hell-of a bumpy ride!!) until our journey led us to heavenly heights, above the clouds.

And as if that weren’t enough, our guide then led us to Laurisilva of Maderia, a very eery Laurel Forest worthy of its UNESCO heritage status. It felt as though we were stepping into a scene from a landscape painting. Truly magical.

Like any good story, our end finishes by the beach, this time a volcanic beach in Seixal. Black sand and wild waves make for the perfect conclusion to our adventure, where we watched the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky blue as we head into the night.

DAY 4: Funchal by day, Local Festivities by Night

Sadly, our adventures are coming to an end, but not without visiting Funchal, Madeira’s capital. We are headed to Monte Madeira by cable car. Up in the mountains two fantastic activities await for us: a visit to the Tropical Gardens (a must), and the Toboggan Ride on a traditional wicker basket. Yes, you heard it right.

Back in the 19th century, these were created as a means of public transport by the population of the parish of Monte, in efforts to get down to the city of Funchal more quicky. These sledges are hand-made from wicker and wood and are pushed by two drivers, who use special boots with thick rubber soles as brakes to control the vehicle. Not going to lie I was a bit skeptical at first, but it turned out to be a very fun ride.

If this is not your cup of tea, but afternoon tea in a relaxed manor is, then head to the Belmond Hotel for the epitome of luxury on the island. For just 39euros, you’ll be in a stunning historical palace, nestled amidst the tranquillity of a tropical jungle. Here, you can indulge in delectable, sweet treats that are sure to tantalize your taste buds.

Night time hit, and we found ourselves in the valleys in the middle of the island, in a cutsie little town, amidst local festivities. What a great way to finish our long-weekend away: beers for a euro, and fresh meat and veg in the grill, cooked by us!

DAY 5 (EXTRA): Paragliding and Goodbyes           

We were luck to have an extra day tagged to this bank holiday, and so we took the opportunity to say goodbye to this beautiful island with a bang: Paragliding! If you are brave enough to do it, then Madeira Paragliding are your guys. Treat yourself to a lovely lunch at Casa da Pedro or Sol Poente before heading to the airport to go home.

Absolute bliss.

TCB xx

Nyege Nyege: A Journey of Music, Adventure and Unforgettable Moments

The last quarter of the year is upon us and that only means on thing: Nyege Nyege is coming soon. Have you been thinking about going to this festival but are unsure about whether to go or not? I can’t emphasize it enough – it is a must. I loved Nyege Nyege. Despite ups and downs and some serious challenges with accomodation, this was one of the most memorable experiences of my life, and one that I would do ever and ever again.

It was in the midst of the winter lockdown in 2020, when the world seemed to have paused, that my fascination with Nyege Nyege festival took root. The festival had gotten traction thanks to the viral Youtube video of DJ Kampire’s Opening ceremony in the middle of the River Nile.

The festival in front of my eyes was a cultural melting pot, a fusion of traditional and moder sounds that resonated with me deeply. I was instantly hooked, in love. I wanted to be there, I needed to be there! I had to make it happen. And so I decided to follow the festival on socials in the hope that one day, I could also participate in such a wild adventure.

Almost a year later, I found myself walking from the tube to my work office when an Instagram story flashed before my eyes: Nyege Nyege tickets were now available. Excitement surged through my veins, and within moments, plans were set in motion. A quick call to the boyfriend and a few clicks on a clunky ticket website and were now proud owners of two passes to an adventure waiting to unfold.

FYI tickets costs $70/ person and $60/ person for 3-nights glamping. Pretty irresistible, right?

Since this was my first venture into West Africa and my first ever visit to Uganda, we decided to extend our trip and make it a 2-week holiday. Our journey would begin with the festival as the centerpiece but expand into a grand exploration of Uganda, from mountain gorillas in the South to mind-blowing waterfalls and a volcano hike in the North.

The 2022 Edition of the festival was marked to be special one. The organisers had decided to move the festival from the city in Jinja to the mystical forest of Itanda Falls, promising an experience like no other. I was so excited.

I remember vividly the first day of Nyege Nyege. Our morning was hectic; we had learned that Kampala has a fashion district where to get personalized outfits and so we wanted our very own attire for the festival. In a matter of 2 hours, we had picked our own fabrics and had a full outfit co-ord made for us. It was time to get to the festival grounds!

Unfortunately, creating these one-off pieces meant that we were delayed to take our bus to Itanda Falls. Boda-bodas, the Uber motorbikes of Uganda, attempted to get us there on time, but the first buses had already left. That was OK, we thought, we will make it in time for sunset, we thought.

The bus and road to Itanda Falls were an odyssey. Transportation had clearly been oversold and so we were pretty jammed between people and luggage in the bus. I took this as a funny situation, but after a few hours in the bus, it started to get a little bit uncomfortable. All part of the experience though.

Unfortunately, our hopes that we would make it to the festival grounds for sunset were not entirely true. The roads in Uganda are not in the most pristine state and so what usually would take 2hrs, here it took double the time.

We finally get to the site, and the bus leaves us on the road for a 10 minute walk to the entrance. Chaos and mayhem greeted us, and I loved it. If one thing is for sure, is that this festival is not for the heart fainted. There were a lot of people hustling in the street on our way into the festival. Hundreds of street vendors trying to sell you anything you may need, from water to sneakers, you name it. There’s not rest for the hustlers.

We finally get to the gate and the festival workers greet us in. We’ve made it, we are here! The excitement is palpable. We get told to walk further into the forest to collect our glamping bracelets. We walk in search of our camp, and that’s when it hits us. In essence, there was no camp. And certainly, no glamping. The promise of a luxurious camping experience turned into an unexpected challenges.

Our finished glamping hut

The camping area where you brought your own tents, or even the built-in tents was lovely. Fairly lights in, all pitch perfect. The promised glamping area, on the contrary, was a working site. The situation was beyond disbelief. We were reduced to try and finish our huts (made of wood) by finding wood in the floor and nailing it in with a screw and hammer. What happened?

We started talking to some people on the ground and finally understood the situation. Politics, lack of time and resources; unfortunately also some bad organisation. The festival was almost cancelled due to political turmoil and negativity around it. Many believe Nyege Nyege is a sex party because the words translate to ‘horny horny’ in Swahili, but it is not it. There was a lot of back and forth about the success of the festival, but in the end organisers won the battle and Nyege Nyege was going ahead. It just meant they weren’t prepared for it. At all.

We found ourselves fighting for bedding in the middle of the night, crying for help for somebody to finish our house and put a lock in it. There were no showers, and no toilets. Panic was starting to kick in but we had to choices: leave or move on and enjoy ourselves.

We decided on the later. We took the executive decision of keeping our valuables (money and passport) with us during the festival and just enjoy the time out of the campsite. We were here for the music, not for the campsite.

At the heart of it all was the festival itself- a kaleidoscope of sounds and rhythms that transcended borders and got everybody together, despite all the challenges abovementioned. From Nigerian afrobeats, South African amapiano, traditional Luganda music, to then electronic and techno, the music was a celebration of diversity. The imperfect setting of the forest only heightened the realization that perfection wasn't necessary for magic to happen. Dancing under the starlit sky, I felt a connection to the world, to the people around me, and to the music that united us all.

Despite the initial challenges and the accommodation fiasco, the festival was a testament to the human spirit's resilience. The chaos, the hustle, and the vibrant energy formed the backdrop to an experience that would forever hold a special place in my heart. The journey wasn't just about the music—it was about embracing the imperfections, finding joy in the unexpected, and leaving with a treasure trove of memories.

I also want to mention that breakfast onsite was spectacular, the coffee fabulous (I would dare to say better than festivals in Europe!) and the dining options on offer very tasty. In lieu of showers, we bathed in the source of the River Nile, which was refreshing and magical. We built friendships with fellow festivalgoers and danced into the night, finishing with a meat feast at The Meat Guy.

Was the experience at the camping shocking? Yes. Did that blur my experience of the festival? No. I would go there again a thousand times more.

P.S.: Since this edition of the festival got so much backlash for the accommodation fiasco in the forest, Nyege Nyege has now moved back to its original location in Jinja, where festival goers can stay in a hotel and move freely and easily in and out of the site.

Do not miss out, it’s an experience of a lifetime. One for all senses.

Turkey For First Timers: A 10-Day Odyssey Through Istanbul, Cappadocia, and the Turquoise Coast

Embark on a transformative journey through Turkey's rich tapestry of culture, history, and natural wonders with our curated 10-day itinerary.

As first-time visitors to Turkey, we sought to immerse ourselves in its diverse offerings and uncover its hidden gems. Spanning three captivating destinations, this itinerary guarantees an unforgettable adventure through Istanbul, Cappadocia, and the Turquoise Coast. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

DAY 1-3: Start the trip in Istanbul, unveiling the essence of this vibrant city

Stepping foot in Istanbul is like stepping into a world where adventure lurks around every corner, and the air is thick with the essence of multiple cultures converging. We were tired after a long flight and taxi ride, but upon arrival, our first instinct was to immerse ourselves in the city's vibrant energy, and what better way to start than by witnessing the mesmerizing hues of the sunset?

A ferry ride became our gateway to this magical experience. No need for elaborate tour bookings; a simple hop onto the ferry from Galata Kulesi to the old town, where majestic mosques stand tall, was all it took. The cost was negligible, payable only in cash, yet the experience was priceless. However, if boats are not your jam, a stroll across the bridge also offered glimpses of locals engaging in the age-old tradition of fishing for miniature shrimp in the Bosphorus waters.

For an authentic Istanbul experience, we recommend a stay of at least 2 to 3 nights in the Karakoy/Beyoglu area. Despite its touristy nature, this district pulsates with life and offers just the right blend of upscale charm. Indulge in a delightful dinner at Aheste, followed by drinks and dancing at Kiki. And for a truly surreal experience, visit Hagia Sophia around 3am when serenity reigns, and the absence of crowds allows for an intimate exploration of this architectural marvel.

Karakoy also boasts a thriving cocktail scene, alongside great local designers and vintage shop treasures. Among our finds were second-hand Ganni pieces and a stunning denim top from 313.

If time permits only one touristy endeavour, let it be a walking tour culminating in a visit to the awe-inspiring Basilica Cistern (and get online tickets to avoid queues on the day!).

DAY 3-6: Journey into the surreal landscapes of Cappadocia

From the bustling streets of Istanbul, we embarked on a short flight to Cappadocia, a land where dreams take flight amidst otherworldly landscapes. While more eco-friendly routes exist, our time constraints led us to opt for a swift plane journey of less than 3 hours. It will certainly be more expensive than a bus ride, but it has its advantages.

In Cappadocia, our senses were overwhelmed by the sight of towering rock formations and the opportunity to partake in unforgettable experiences. If this is what you are after for your Turkey trip, then read more here and here.

Whilst for us doing the Hot Air Balloons was magical, you can still have an incredible and unique time in Cappadocia without doing this experience. Visiting the Goreme Open Air Museum or hiking the Love Valley, Pasabag or the Rose Valley is breakthtaking and definitely worth your time there. We also took this time to experience the Turkish Hamam at Kelebek, which was delightful.

DAYS 6-8: Touring the Turquoise Coast, where Land meets Sea

After our sojourn amidst Cappadocia's rocky vistas, we craved the warmth of the coast, and so we flew to Antalya. The distances in Turkey are huge, and when you are tight for time, this is your only resort.

Antalya's allure extended beyond its pristine beaches. It’s a warm city with lots to offer! We found great coffee and aperitivo time at he Palmen Haus, and savored the freshest seafood at Ayar Mayhanesi, beneath the open sky.

We only had a day at Antalya, and I wish we had more. I think it could be a place where, given the time, you could stay for a few nights. We didn’t have such pleasure, and took our rental car on our way to Kas. Diving enthusiasts like myself will find Kas to be a haven for underwater adventures. I seized the opportunity to obtain my PADI Advanced Open Water certification, exploring sunken treasures beneath the waves. Kas is a small village but it is perfect to relax and unwind in the most beautiful and blue turquoise waters.

In Kas, our culinary escapades led us to Helios for sumptuous Turkish breakfasts, Biiist for a perfect cup of coffee, L'Apero for evening aperitifs, and Demeti Kas for delectable grilled delights. Additionally, a memorable day excursion involved chartering a private boat, complete with a barbecue, to secluded turquoise coves—a true epitome of luxury on a budget.

For history buffs, a visit to Myra Antik Kenti offered insights into ancient civilizations amidst breathtaking ruins.

DAY 8-9: A Visit to Pammukkale, nature’s masterpiece unveiled

You don’t really need more than a day in Pammukkale, but it is certainly worth the stop. The surreal beauty of the naturally formed salt pools juxtaposed against the remnants of an ancient Roman village left an indelible impression. Despite the scorching temperatures, wandering amidst these ethereal landscapes felt like traversing a realm suspended between fantasy and reality. This is your picture perfect postcard!

DAY 10: Goodbye Istanbul

Our journey culminated in Istanbul, where we savored our final moments with a spa visit and a sumptuous dinner at Lokanta 1741, marking the end of an unforgettable exploration through the heart of Turkey.

There’s so much more to explore, we can’t wait to be back.

TCB xx

Borgo Sant'Andrea: The Taste of Luxury in Amalfi

There are some moments in life that leave an indelible mark on our hearts, and my recent 35th birthday celebration at Borgo Sant'Andrea in Amalfi was undoubtedly one of those moments. Nestled along the stunning Amalfi Coast, Borgo Sant'Andrea isn't just a 5-star luxury hotel; it's a slice of history that has been meticulously transformed into a haven of opulence and impeccable service.

Before its transformation into a world-class luxury destination, Borgo Sant'Andrea was a charming coastal village that bore witness to centuries of Mediterranean life. The historical significance of the location added an extra layer of enchantment to the already breathtaking beauty of the Amalfi Coast. The hotel's careful preservation of its heritage also allowed me to sense the echoes of time as I explored the beautifully renovated spaces.

From the moment my friends and I arrived, it was clear that their dedication to exceptional customer service was unparalleled. The staff's warm and genuine hospitality made me feel like a VIP guest rather than just another passerby. This commitment to creating a personalized and memorable experience set the tone for what was to come.

Perched on a terrace overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, a luxuriously set table awaited us. The attention to detail was impecable; from the elegant table settings to the carefully curated menu, every element exuded a sense of sophistication.

Planning ahead had proven to be advantageous, as I managed to secure this coveted spot for our celebration despite the fact that this is only open to hotel guests (yay). This exclusivity added an extra layer of intimacy to the occasion, making us feel like we were in our own private paradise.

As we sat down to lunch, overflowing glasses of rose and white wine from Ischia set the tone for a sumptuous feast. The raviolo caprese stole the spotlight as the main course, presenting a harmonious blend of flavors that paid homage to the region's culinary heritage. The grilled fish platter showcased the freshest catch of the day.

Local desserts like the Baba Rum provided a sweet conclusion to the meal, but the surprises didn't end there. A beautifully crafted birthday cake emerged, a testament to the hotel's dedication to making every moment unforgettable. As friends shared laughter and stories, time seemed to slow down, allowing us to savor every moment of this pitch-perfect meal.

This is a memory I’ll carry with me forever. It took my breath away and left me with a heart full of gratitude.

Lau*

The Amalfi Coast Postcards

Sometimes you can get so caught up in doing, doing and doing that you forget how lucky you are to have done everything that you have.

I am now sitted finishing my after lunch cup of coffee. I am revisiting my travel pictures of my 35th birthday trip to the Amalfi Coast in May as I listen to Yuja Wang playing piano like a master that she is. And I can’t keep thinking: boy, I am lucky.

I have found the perfect soundtrack to the perfect trip. Yuja is playing Chopin’s 24 preludes (Op.28) in my ears and I can only say that ‘La Vita e Bella’ in Italy. I feel so blessed to have the opportunity to visit all this magic places, even in the rain.

From top to bottom, below my journey through some iconic spots: Proscida - Ischia - Capri - Sant’Agata - Positano and Amalfi.

Cappadocia Hot Air Balloons

In the heart of the enchanting land of Cappadocia, a dream was about to take flight. It was a dream woven with equal parts anticipation and hesitation, and it all began with a price tag that seemed to dangle between the realms of extravagant and invaluable.

The idea of drifting across the skies in a hot air balloon had come to me from the pages of travel magazines and the stories of fellow adventurers. It looked magical, and I wanted to experience it too.

It was a dance of contemplation, a tug-of-war between the part of you that yearned for the extraordinary and the part that held tightly onto financial sensibility. Could this experience truly be worth the sum that it demanded? We mulled over this question for days, weighing the scales of experience against the weight of our wallet. And finally, with a leap of faith, we answered with a YES – sometimes, dreams are worth every penny. We weren’t wrong.

The night before our adventure, excitement surged through like electricity. I felt like a kid during Christmas again.

The shuttle bus arrived punctually in the early hours of dawn. Like good Spaniards, we were slightly late, but they were kind enough to wait for us. 30 minutes later we were in location ready to go. A packed breakfast was provided as we waited for the balloons to be blown up with air. You’ll have some free time until you are ready to go, and this is your best opportunity to take some lovely pictures with the balloons in the background. Alternatively, you can also pay for a photoshoot, but note this will cost you as much as the balloon experience itself.

As the sun's first rays painted the horizon with hues of rose and gold, the hot air balloon was brought to life. The fabric unfurled like a giant's whisper, and the basket stood ready to cradle our dreams. The gentle hiss of propane ignited the flame within, and soon enough, we found ourselves ascending.

The feeling was surreal, as if you had become a character in a storybook, the pages of reality blending with the pages of your imagination. The landscape below unfolded like a patchwork quilt – the unique geological formations of Cappadocia, the fairy chimneys and ancient caves. All bathed in the soft light of dawn. Truly Maginal.

Time seemed to stand still as the balloon carried us higher and higher. And as you looked around, you realized that the cost, the contemplation, all of it had melted away into insignificance. The price tag could never quantify the beauty, the awe, and the sheer magic of this moment.

The balloon drifted gracefully, and the the sun climbed higher, casting its warm glow upon the land. The trip lasts around and hour and it goes quick, despite the balloon going at a very slow pace. When our balloon started to descent, it carried us not only memories but a newfound understanding of the value of chasing dreams, no matter the cost.

Descent was the trickiest most abrupt part, but also fun. And we were rewarded with Champagne! What else.

TCB xx

HOT AIR BALLOON PRACTICALITIES - Your Questions Answered

Which operator to go for the Hot Air Balloon Experience? we recommend Turquaz Balloons, Butterfly Balloons or Discovery. We also recommend the experience with 16 people or less, as otherwise you feel very tight in your basket. The less people the better, but obviously that comes with different price tags.

Pro-tip: whatever company you end up choosing, make sure it’s reliable. There is a lot of scam in the business and the most trusted operaors are those that are Turkish and possibly from Cappadocia. If you are unsure, your hotel will be glad to help you sort out this experience for you. It might be slightly more expensive but the difference is marginal.

How many nights should I stay in Cappadocia if I want to do the balloons? If the main reason to come to Cappadocia were the ballons, make sure you stay a few nights in the area, as weather is unpredictable and the balloons get cancelled often. We had two cancelled trips before we were able to go onto one, so this is worth taking into consideration in your planning.

Beware: if your trip gets cancelled, the tour company will look to book you for the next day……if they have availability. We had a bit of a nightmare with this - we were promised to be booked on the next day and then we weren’t and it was our last day and our last chance to go on the balloons. Thankfully our hotel helped us find another operator and we manage to go on the ballooons but definitely something to take into consideration - you need to be on top of things to make this happen as it’s not as easy as it seems.

Choosing The Right Hotel in Cappadocia

If you've decided to invest in a trip to Cappadocia for the unforgettable hot air balloon experience, two primary thoughts are likely going through your head at this this moment:

Firstly, selecting the optimal hotel to enjoy splendid views of the balloons (while indulging in a touch of luxury?)

Secondly, determining the most reputable company to entrust with your hot air balloon adventure.

Worry not! We have the answer to your queries.

In our humble opinion, the best hotel to go to is MITHRA CAVE HOTEL

There was a lot of back and forth around choosing our hotel in Cappadocia. We wanted to sleep in Goreme, as this was the quickest and easiest village to start from to go to all of the main attractions in Cappadocia. We also wanted to sleep in a traditional cave hotel, but we wanted to have a bit of luxury too. Having a good view of the balloons in the morning was an absolute must.

There are many hotels that made our short list, including Sultan Cave Suites, Koza Cave Suites, Kelebek Cave Suites and Cappadocia Cave Suites.

Considering the criteria abovementioned and a mid-range budget, Mithra came as the best alternative, and it did not disappoint. The rooms were spacious, they had a bath (a luxury other hotels like Koza or Sultan will not provide for the same price), and the views on the rooftop were breathtaking. There are several spots in the hotel where you can see the balloons from, providing enough privacy to take lovely photos as well. More over there are a few “living room” areas where to chill other than your room, and most rooms will also have an outdoor sofa to enjoy tea and games. A wide range of breakfast food was also complimentary.

The service was kind, friendly and overall excellent, providing us with many options for activities and dining in and out of Goreme. They can also help you booking your hot air balloon experience, though I recommend booking this before arriving. More on this experience here.

Cappadocia Cave Suites came very close to first position in our ranking. This hotel provides wine on tap!! But it has a catch: only until 6pm. Considering you’ll want to explore during the day, by the time you get home, free wine time will be over. Nevertheless, this is only of the few hotels that provides free access to a thermal spa and an indoor pool. If this is something of a necessity for you, then this hotel would be better suited.

Whilst we picked Mithra, we would still recommend visiting Sultan Cave Hotel’s restaurant (Seten Restaurant) for excellent sunset views and good food (something Mithra lacks of) and Kelebek for the traditional Turkish Bath & Spa experience. If you would prefer a super traditional, family-run and eco-friendly cave hotel, then Koza is your option.

Enjoy careless readers,

TCB xx

Glacier Postcards

Iceland Wonderland

We just came back from a visit to another world, or how other humans call it, Iceland.

I must admit, I didn’t know what to expect about this trip. I am not the usual nature adventures girl and so I was a bit skeptical at first. But boy, was I wrong.

Iceland surpassed all my expectations. In fact, I am in love! In love with a country that has everchanging landscapes, other worldly scenery and yet, very empty cities. Full waterfalls and many glaciars still thriving. High winds and colourful rainbows. How could one expect to see so much in such little time? We had planned 5 nights and 6 days in Iceland, and we would do it all over again.

Come with me on this itinerary through the South of Iceland, and replicate it whenever are ready. Shall we?

DAY 1 - THE THINGVELLIR RING ROAD

‘Early to bed and early to rise makes a man healthy, wealthy, and wise’ , said Benjamin Franklin once upon a time. He was right.

To enjoy these holidays the most, an early start is recommended. There will be a fair bit of driving everyday to get from one location to another, and so we suggest starting your day a bit earlier than your usual holiday to ensure you can pack in as much as you can.

07:30AM: A good injection of caffeine (or tea!) at Reykjavik Roasters and pair your hot drink with a pastry from Bread & Co is highly recommended before you are set to start your drive.

First stop: Thingvellir National Park (~50min drive from Reykjavik). After a very windy roadtrip to the start of the so-called ‘Ring Road’, you’ll land yourself at the national park. In here you can take the Almannagja walk through continental plates, where North American and Eurasian plates are actively moving apart. There are a few walks you can take from the visitor center, we took the footpath to the waterfall Oxararfoss (~45min roundtrip) and it was lovely.

After this we drive to Strokkur and the Gullfoss Falls (~50min drive). Walk around this active geothermal area and wait for the geysers to erupt. You’ll likely see Strokkur (the Churn) erupt but might have to wait some time to see Geysir (the Gusher) spit its load. Worry not, these tends to take place every 10 minutes, so it is not much of a wait!

From there you can take a short drive (~10) to Gulfoss Falls, or ‘Golden Falls’. You get quite an impressive and up-close view to this waterfall, and on a rainy day, you will see a rainbow! The view is quite breathtaking as the waterfall has a 21 meter drop.

It is now time for lunch time and we suggest the famous tomato greenhouse Friedmar as our preferred choice. This is a lovely family run restaurant inside the greenhouse that produces ~40% of iceland’s tomatoes. Needless to say the whole menu is inspired in tomatoes: tomato beer, tomato cocktails, tomato soup and tomato mains. All paired with free flowing excellent bread. You are in for a treat! Pro-tip: book your slot before hand to ensure you have a table ready for you. It’s quite a famous spot. We booked the 3pm slot which was perfect to give us enough time to sightsee before eating.

After lunch, you can drive to the Kerid Crater before your last and most exciting stop of the day. A hike to the natural hot springs of Reykjadalur. Note that this hike takes 2 hours roundtrip so plan your time accordingly. It’s worth the walk, don’t miss it.

It’s now time to head home for the day. Our recommendation is to stay in Selfoss, and if you are looking for where to stay, we highly recommend SKOLO apartment. There’s a lovely bakery nearby (GK Bakery) where you can buy bread and pastries in the morning and a great restaurant if you want to go out for dinner called Tryggvaskáli

DAY 2: WATERFALLS DAY

Start your day by driving to Urridafoss (~15min) before you get to Seljalandafoss (~45min), a waterfall of 60meters drop that you can walk through. Gljufrabui is also a 10 minute walk away and it is fun if you want to get yourself into the canyon to see it at its full glory.

A short 25-min drive will then land you on Skogafoss, my favorite waterfall of the day and the entire trip. I really hope you go on a sunny day as the rainbow that can see whilst taking in the view is otherworldly. Climb up the starts to see the drop from a different angle and endure in a hike through the canyon. Even if you don’t want to walk too much, we encourage you to take a few steps away from the waterfall as the views from the canyon itself are quite breathtaking.

Recommended spot for lunch (next to the Skogafoss): Mia’s Country Van Fish & Chips was probably the most incredible fish & chips I’ve ever tried. That good.

We are now on the road again on the way to Vik. It’s coffee time at the SKool Bus Café, which we recommend you stopping by even if you don’t drink coffee. They have other drinks and this spot is very original.

We spend the sunset at Sand Beach, a black beach with basalt columns and cliffs that oversee the Hálsanefshellir Cave. If you pay enough attention to the water you may even see some seals saying hi to you.

Time to head back home for dinner & sleep: Our recommendation either of these two lovely cottages in Kirkjubajarklaustur (this one and this one). These are a bit secluded but nevertheless magic and on the way to Skaftafell. Pro-tip: these home have a BBQ so make sure you buy some food (and everything you need in general) in Vik (that’s the closest supermarket, ~50min) before driving to the house.

DAY 3 - GLACIER TOURING, HIKING AND CLIMBING

You’ll have to wake up early to make everything happen, but we recommend that you try to do it all.

07:00AM Drive to Jokulsarlon Glacier (~2h). Whilst this may sound like a boring drive, we loved it. The landscape changed at least 3 times whilst we were driving so we were certainly entertained as we listened to tunes along the way.

First stop: Diamond Beach, a black sand beach that has the remainders of some of the icebergs from Jokulsarlon glacier. Given the clarity of the ice, they resemble diamonds.

After a leisure walk in the beach, see the glacier up close with a zodiac boat tour. Whilst amphibious boat tours are also good, the zodiac is the only tour that will get up close to the glacier and icebergs and you’ll be pretty much alone during the trip. We used Arctive Adventures and loved it. Pricey ($95) but worth it. Also this experience must be booked few weeks in advance or else it will be fully sold out.

Following the boat tour we drove for ~30min to meet the guys from Troll Expeditions, which took us on a 4h journey through the Vatnajokull glacier, which sits on top of a volcano. We decided to take the hiking and climbing tour and it was one of the most memorable activities from the trip. Even if you don’t climb, this is highly recommended (and must be booked in advance as well!).

If you still have energy for more, then we suggest a 2hr hike to Svartifoss, an spectacular waterfall with basalt columns.

Recommended dinner spot: Systrakaffi

We came back to our lovely secluded cottage to sleep (same as the night before).

Pro-tip: If you have extra time, you can extend this journey into two days. There are a few canyons and waterfalls along the way that we missed. And quite a few trails on the Svartifoss area.

DAY 4: RELAX AND UNWIND

We had heard about the abandoned plane and after many friends visits and disappointments, we decided to skip it. Instead, we spend our morning searching for hot springs and yummy food. We drove back to the ring road and visited Hrunalaug Hot Spring ($10 entry), the cheapest and most local Hot Spring. It use to be an old barn to wash sheeps. Now people get bath in it instead.

Whilst this place is super cute and worth seeing, we felt the water wasn’t as warm as our previous hot springs in Reykjadalur. Nearby there is also Secret Lagoon ($30 entry), one of the oldest geothermal pools with a spouting geyser. This place also has showers and a bar, so depending on what you fancy may be better suited.

If you want a fancier experience, then you also have Laugarvatn Fontana with a spa, though feels more like something you could get anywhere else. We nevertheless visited this spot and ended up going on a small visit tour of the facilities where they show you how they make Rye bread from the hot volcano soil. This is not a must, but if you are nearby is a cute experience.

Our last stop before we went back to Reykjavik was the hike to Bruarfoss. There are two ways to get there: the official is a 3hr hike that goes from the official bruarfoss parking through several waterfalls until you get to bruarfoss. The unofficial goes from a residential area and takes ~30min road trip. In order to do the lazy route we took you just need to type “bruarfoss” on google and it will drive you to a residential area. You will have to park your car unofficially and just start walking. It probably is less pretty than the official route but if you are pressed for time it will get you to the waterfall quickly.

Dinner time was served at Rok back in Reykjavik. However, Kol also had great following whilst we were there.

Celebrate the beautiful days in nature with a Rye bread icecream from Café Loki and a nightcap at Vedur. Live music and whiskeys are also served at Dillon.

DAY 5: CULTURE DAY IN REYKJAVIK

Another leisure day with an infusion of entertainment included. Our top picks:

• Breakfast at Sandholt. You will literally want to eat everything on the menu (and on show at the bakery!)

• Walk through the hip streets of the city center, stopping by Hallgrimskirkja (the striking concrete church) and walking through rainbow street Skólavörðustígur

• Take in the latest exhibition at Reykjavik Art Museum (Hafnarhus, modern/ contemporary art) and stop by Fischersund, an scent shop set up by artist and musician Sigur Ros.

• Lunch at Mat Bar for a change in cuisine (it’s Middle Eastern!)

• Drive your way out of the city for some furry fun at Höfuðstöðin, where you can see Shoplifter’s installation that debut at the Venice Biennale in 2019. You can also have drinks after the exhibition in their little café.

• Treatyourself for dinner at Tides at The Edition Hotel or alternatively BRUT, a wine bar cum restaurant also worth stopping at.

We departed early in the morning the after day 5. Sad because it was time to go, but greatful for all the beautiful memories.

TCB xx