Hong Kong Diaries: How to Spend 4-days in the City And Still Want More

This year’s Easter trip was a little different. Usually done as a throuple or at least as a couple with my girlfriends, I was left a little flat when I found out that I was about to have no trip at all.

But a little bit of brainstorming and a couple of pillow consultations later, an idea came to mind: I want to explore solo travelling again. I hate the idea that because you have nobody to go out with, you just stay put at home. One deserves to find fun, even if you chase it yourself.

The idea started simply: a diving trip. And then evolved further, a stop over in Hong Kong to get to destination meant now I was having a diving trip AND a city trip. Chaos, my favourite.

Initially started as a quick 2-night stay in the city. That’s enough time, they said. But quickly I realised that it was not going to be enough. I changed my flight and extended my trip to 4 nights and 5 days. Let me tell you, it was still not enough, but I loved it either way!

What to do in the city for that long? Let me tell you.

Arrival on Saturday: Half Day Excitement Into Night Delights

My flight from London Heathrow was close to 13hrs, landing me in Hong Kong at around 3pm on Saturday. I love that first feeling you get when you step foot in a new city, let alone a new continent. The smell is different, the heat is high, the humidity is heavy, and I adore it.

I hadn’t even gotten to my hotel and I was already indulging on an Egg Custard tart, a must try in Hong Kong. Although it is original from its neighbouring island in Macau, who in turn, learnt it from the Portuguese.

Few tips on arrival: get an Octopus card. This will work as your disposable wallet. Your public transport fares, and even private taxis can be paid with it, and so can all your expenses at 7eleven or small venues. Works great if you don’t have cash and can be “refilled”.

My choice of hotel was Y Hotel in Sheung Wan and it was a good one. Location wise it was great, close to all the cool bars, shops and restaurants in the area, but not in the thick of it. The rooms were clean, comfy and spacious and the price was just right (60-70GBP approx per night), I thought.

You may think that since this was arrival day it would have been a chilled one but if you know me you know that would never be the case. A quick shower and a change of clothes and off we went into discovering Sheung Wan. First order of the evening: shopping! There were a few places I wanted to check out and none of them disappointed: Pabe Pabe for the IT bag you didn’t know you needed, PMQ to get lost in little boutiques of local vendors across a multi-story building and Goods of Desire as a staple for cool souvenirs and clothes that will remind you of being there. Of course, it wouldn’t be me without stopping at a vintage shop. My favourite: The Hula.

15 minutes further (by foot) got me to the Henderson Building for my first cocktail of the holiday, at nowhere else other than The Peridot. A building designed by Zaha Hadid architects did not disappoint, although it came with some unexpected surprises along the way. More on it here.

2 cocktails later and a quick taxi ride onto my dinner table at Ho Lee Fook, the hottest restaurant in the area, and I can see why. The decor is decadent and cool. Flashy but unpretentious, sexy. The food is on par. I loved every single dish and left full. My favourites were the razor clams, the chongqing chicken and the short rib. The sommelier was also very good at recommending a wine to pair my meal with, and most wines are Chinese, which was a nice surprise.

To finish the night with a bow, I ended up having a massage at a nearby parlour. A dream before I had even gotten to my real bed.

Sunday FunDay

Sunday is the day of rest they say, and I like spending it nurturing my mind with culture. After a delicious Dim Sum at the beloved Sun Hing restaurant, we ventured off to M+ museum. A mammoth of a building, filled with contemporary art, local and international. At the time they had a terrific exhibition about Chinese art, alongside a retrospective of Lee Bul. You can easily spend a couple of hours, if not more, so plan accordingly. A few steps away you also have the Hong Kong Palace, which you can also visit.

After my culture fix though, I decided to visit Sham Shui Po. I was captivated by  the quirkiness of this neighborhood. A mixture of old and new: Apliu St turns into a market where you can find anything and everything tech related. From an old super Nintendo, to the latest smart TV. Then you’ve got a selection of cutsie little shops: vintage shops, book shops, coffee shops, all scattered around Nam Cheong St, Tainan St and Maple St. Some of my favorites included Midway (for gifts), Hunter (for books), Sing Jai Kee (for vintage) and Cofflow (for coffee). If you are in the area, going to the Kung Wo Beancurd Factory is also a must. After a long walk I retreated myself to the hotel, only to venture out to the Ladies Market for dinner, but I must say if you are tired, skip it. Neither the Ladies market nor Mongkok night markets are what they just to be 10 years ago. They feel made for tourist and overrun with trinkets. There is nothing there I’d buy for myself and the food is subpar considering everything you can get in the city. A shame really, as I use to love having food outdoors in the middle of the street at night.

Monday Exploring China Borders: Shenzhen for a Day

A decide to sneak out to China for a day, and you can read how it went here. I would certainly make the time for it, if you can.

Tuesday Toned Down Goodbye

Whilst I am a city girl, I enjoy going on hikes, and HK certainly has a few to enjoy. The closest one without leaving the city is a hike around The Victoria Peak. Depending on how much you want to exercise, you can do it all the way from Central. However, if you want to make the experience a little extra special, I’d recommend you taking the tram to the peak, and spend more time exploring the peak. There’s a variety of walks you can take from there, from 45 minutes to a couple of hours, and you’ll get excellent views of the city and its skyline from there. Beware, there’s a massive mall once you reach the top, so don’t spend too much time in it or you’ll lose track of time! Good to grab a snack there before you head on your exploration, but I’d say skip otherwise.

After a very rewarding hike, I head home to switch outfits before treating myself to my last meal, this time at Duddell’s.

The main dining room is a Michelin-starred experience, but the upstairs lounge area is where the fun is at. The Upper Room offers a Garden Terrace, an all-day dim sum menu, and their infamous Sunday brunch (which expands to Monday) with free-flow champagne. What else you could ask for?

I almost had a hear attack when I realised I booked for the wrong day and told me they were closed for a late night function, but they were kind to allow me to have an almost private dining experience as the last customer of the day before closing. The cocktails are spectacular, their peking pie one to try, and the scallop dumplings a must. Top notch experience from start to finish, I’ll be back.

Things were coming to a close, and I really didn’t want to leave. My last eve was spent with Kan taking a stroll through his favorite spots across Sheung Wan, and Mongkok, including a super cute old school HK café, where I got to try their milk tea and a dangerously yummy French toast.

To wrap things up in true romance, I took the Star Ferry from TST back to Central while the light show was happening (you can catch it most days at 8pm, and it’s best seen from TST side). Hong Kong was doing its absolute best to make sure I wouldn’t forget it. It worked, I’ll be back.

TCB xx

Tubbataha Reef Park: Divers Paradise for Coral Lovers

I don’t know if I ever told you, but once a year, my girlfriends and I disappear. No agenda, no compromises, just a place that ticks all our boxes: culture, nature, good food, great company. Over the years we've made it through Mexico, Panama, Thailand, Philippines, Egypt and Turkey. Not bad for a group of girls who just really love a good trip.

This year however, life had other plans. One by one, Easter commitments piled up and the group trip quietly fell apart. I was gutted, but then I got myself thinking: when was the last time I went somewhere entirely on my own terms?

The answer came quickly. I wanted to dive, and I wanted to go back to where it all began: The Philippines.

My first ever experience diving was in Apo Reef in the Philippines. Little did we know when my girlfriends and I were putting on our dive gear for the first time, that we were about to dive in one of the top diving spots of the world. That was going to set high expectations for the rest of our diving adventures. I went down under, and what I saw was incredible, yet I came up so full of fear of what may happen that I almost never dived again.

Thankfully my partner is a much risk taker than I am, and through a few more tries, it has now become a much needed part of my life. Being underwater makes me feel so alive, so calm, and so happy. I sometimes wish I could be there more often! And so when the opportunity arise to go back to where it all started I didn’t think it twice. I was going back to Philippines, and this time to the real gem of the country: Tubbataha National Reef Park. One of the most remote and protected reefs on the planet, nestled in the middle of the Philippine Sea. A place most people have never heard of, and even fewer have seen.

Buckle up, this is my story.

What is Tubbataha?

Nestled in the middle of the Sulu Sea, Tubbataha hosts around 75% of all the coral in the world. It is a protected marine park and a national treasure. You can only access it by liveaboard — a diving boat where you stay for the entire trip — during a limited window of mid-March to mid-June. Spaces are scarce, so if this is on your list, start planning early.

Getting there

Flying into Puerto Princesa is easy from Manila, with several airlines to choose from. One important thing to factor in: you will need an extra day in Puerto Princesa after returning to land (you must not fly for 24hrs after your last dive) so don't plan a tight connection. Build it into your itinerary and treat it as part of the adventure. I did, and it was fabulous. I ended up having a fantastic beach day in Honda Bay, island hopping and soaking up the sunshine at Cowrie Island, followed by a delicious meal in town (try Kalui for seafood, you won't regret it) and a massage at one of their 24/7 parlours. Dreamcare Wellness did the job beautifully.

Choosing your liveaboard

Let me tell you, choosing a liveaboard is not easy! This was my first time and I was unsure of what to look for: luxurious? Mid-range? Cheap and cheerful? You don't want to go too low at the expense of your safety, but also not so high that the vibe doesn't feel right.

As a female solo traveller I wanted privacy but also the opportunity to connect with likeminded people. Liveaboard.com is a great starting point and their customer service is excellent. After a few enquiries I landed on the MV Dolphin. I was a little nervous because the reviews were mixed, but the boat had been recently refurbished (and changed of owners), and I loved the idea of small dive groups no more than 6 divers per instructor and a maximum of 18 guests on board.

On budget: expect to pay around £2,000 for a solid mid-range experience, which is what I did and I have zero regrets. You can go up to £5,000 for top-end luxury, or find options around £1,500, though I'd be cautious about quality at that price point. For a trip this remote and this special, mid-range is the sweet spot.

Do you have the experience for this?

Tubbataha is not intimidating, but it does ask something of you. I'd recommend having at least 40-50 dives under your belt before going. Advanced Open Water certification is ideal, as you'll want to be comfortable diving to 30 metres and handling drift dives and changing currents out in open sea. No night dives are involved. They're not permitted in the park and the currents can shift too much, so that's one less thing to worry about.

If you're a nervous diver who nearly gave it all up after your first experience (hello, that was me), you can absolutely do this. Just make sure you've put in some practice before hand and you can have fun with it too. The sea will surprise you in the best possible way.

What to pack — and what I'd do differently

A few things I learned the hard way so you don't have to:

I always get cold underwater, and water temperatures here sit around 29 degrees at the surface — lovely — but drop 4-5 degrees as soon as you hit 20 metres, especially with the currents. Bring a 5mm full wetsuit. Operators typically only carry shorties, so I had to specifically request mine. Don't leave it to chance.

A dive skin suit is also worth packing. Easy to fold, adds an extra layer of warmth, and takes up almost no space in your bag.

And my most unexpected recommendation: a selfie stick. I'm always nervous about accidentally touching coral and Tubbataha has so much of it absolutely everywhere. A selfie stick lets you get close to your favourite fish and formations without the anxiety. Game changer.

What it looks like down there

Imagine a coral paradise, and then add some more. There is even moss down there, which I had never seen before. The sheer density and health of the reef is lovely, but it is the quantity and diverse variety that makes it truly special. Egypt has incredible visibility and corals, and so does Palau — but Tubbataha has a richness and abundance that feels entirely its own.

Visibility varied across dives. Go deep and it can get murky. But at 15 metres and above, on a sunny day, it is a full show in front of your eyes: yellow, red, purple, green, every colour you can think of, just alive and moving. Healthy coral as far as you can see, and life absolutely everywhere.

Each dive site is unique, although you will dive twice in the same spot, with two sites a day, which actually works in your favour. Seeing the same spot at different times of day, in different light and current, can be a different experience each time.

We saw baby sharks and nurse sharks throughout the trip. But the real magic? Whale sharks on two of our dives — the last one on our very last dive, as if saying goodbye. Cherry on top doesn't quite cover it. A family of dolphins above the surface, barracudas, triggerfish, trevally, enormous tunas. It was relentless in the best possible way.

My honest review of the MV Dolphin

There were very few in-depth reviews of this boat beyond what you find on Liveaboard.com, and that always makes me a little suspicious, as people tend to write glowing summaries without much detail. So here is my honest download:

The cabins are way more spacious than I expected. I was sharing with another girl and we had an ensuite bathroom, big beds, a little desk and enough storage for our gear. Everything was in a classic Filipino old-school wooden style which gave it real charm.

The dining area had the same warmth, and there were always snacks available. From fruit and healthy bits to cookies and crisps for when you need them. On food generally: it was tasty, generous and always covered meat, fish and vegetarian options which I appreciated. My only note is that it leaned heavily on the fried side; delicious, but a lot across several days in a row. That said, they also served ice cream, so all is forgiven.

The one thing I'd flag for anyone booking: try to get direct contact with the boat ahead of time rather than going through Liveaboard.com exclusively. Just to confirm your gear requirements and make sure everything is sorted before you board. Would have saved me a little back and forth on my wetsuit situation.

The rhythm of liveaboard life

Tubbataha is not like other liveaboards where you hop on and off islands. You stay on the boat for 6 days and 5 nights, in the middle of the ocean, and you don't get off. Four dives a day means you sleep deeply — until the boat moves overnight to reach the next dive site, which will wake you at least once. Factor that in and embrace it; the sound of the engine moving you somewhere new in the dark is oddly exciting.

Dive, eat, rest, repeat. It sounds simple because it is, and it is glorious.

On our last evening we had a BBQ on the boat followed by karaoke — a non-negotiable in Filipino culture and honestly the most endearing way to end a trip. The average age on board skewed older, but everyone was so knowledgeable and generous with their experience that I found myself wanting to talk more and more. We were lucky enough to have a couple of the boat's owners on board, including my dive buddy Kathy — caring, empathetic, and endlessly patient with the number of times we surfaced early because I was running low on air while being completely distracted by everything around us, and a little nervous of everything happening too (which eased over time, dive by dive).

It is impressive how quickly a week disappears when you are doing nothing other than exactly what you love.

I would do it all over again, and so should you.

TCB xxx

From HK to Shenzhen in 50 Minutes: Here's Why You Should

I swear in another life I was born SE Asian. The love and excitement I get this side of the pond compares to no other!

I had just been in Hong Kong for 2 days and three nights and I already knew I could stay so much longer. Especially, if visiting mainland China. The heat, the noise, the cultural difference, the fashion, the food! I wanted it all. But since I couldn’t have it all, I compromised on a quick visit to Shenzhen. Exactly the same thing I did 17 years ago when I first visited the country.

My idea of Shenzhen was that of a city of dupes. I remember visiting a huge mall where a much younger Lau was after the latest LV collection with Stephen Sprouse. They didn’t have it in stock they said, but if you come in two hours we’ll have it ready for you. And there it was, steaming hot as if just made, two hours later. That followed a visit to a Spa where we indulge into a massage and stayed the night . The morning after we came back to Hong Kong. It was all fairly easy, as I was also with some Hong Kong friends who sorted it all out.

How would it be, all this time later? And how would it be, going all by myself?

The Journey

After some research and a download from a good friend from HK, I learned that getting to the border between HK and Shenzhen has become easier than ever, especially now that the relationship between HK and mainland China has softened. A 50min ride with the East Rail Line/ MTR from Admiralty to Lo Wu and you are at the border.

You will need access to internet for pretty much anything so I had bought a Chinese e-SIM before hand. Other tips that were extremely useful were to download a good translate app as many people don’t speak English, WeChat for instant messaging with vendors and people in China, as well as Alipay International for making transactions in all shops in China, or for any other payments. I was pretty stunned by the app, which not only allows you to pay anything and everything, but also has access to public transport cards, the ability to order a local Uber (called DiDi), and much much more. All from Chinese, directly translated to the language of your choice. Oh, technology at its best.

Crossing the border was a surprisingly easy process. You will be asked to fill out a digital form, after which you’ll get a QR code. Digital prints on, and off you go.

The Arrival

luohu commercial city

What you see on arrival is very different to what Shenzhen city is today. I almost feel Lo Wu and Luohu Shopping Mall are what is left of the “dupe city” I used to know, except it is now more tired and less friendly. A lot of vendors cat calling you and very little patience for anything other than sell, sell, sell. I didn’t leave with any shopping bags this time, but the prices for what they were offering and speed at which they can provide is still very enticing.

But I was here to explore further this time, so after doing a bit of research, I went to where most locals go these days: the mix-C shopping mall. Getting a DiDi taxi was a bit of a long process due to the sheer amount of people ordering private transportation at the station, but once inside the car everything went smoothly.

The mixC mall is every shopper’s dream. I am really not a fan of shopping malls, but this was a mammoth. The biggest and the loudest, the better. A whole block only for restaurants, and very nice ones I must add. Another block only for the flagship store of Gentle Monster, which hosted an exhibition of local talent within it. Another block with local fashion, both street and luxury. The list continues. One could spend days there, and not see it all. I was speechless.

If you’d like to visit it for yourself, I recommend going for lunch to Shiheyuan (L2 Floor, Shop NL219) and try out their peking duck, it’s a must. Then venture in one of the shopping areas. I couldn’t tell you exactly where was what, I got lost a few times! But I loved stopping at most of the local Asian/ Chinese brands: from luxurious Songmont to MOF, to concept stores with many boutique-y brands that are now part of my go to like Yvmin and Monsecret (both jewellery brands).

I only had a day, so spent half of it here and then shifted gears into more cultural stuff. I had heard great things about Shenzhen Bay Culture Plaza and didn’t want to miss out on it. Locals call the museum in this plaza “the AirPods building” because of its resemblance to the ear phones and I must admit, they are not wrong.

This area was bonkers architecturally. Designed by MAD architects, it looked like you were going into a cave in space. There’s a couple of tunnels that are accessible to all and flooded with local tourists taking pictures, and a paid for museum exhibition which at the time of my visit hosted to of my favourite artists: Es Devlin and Man Ray. What a treat.

To add to it, I had a delicious ice cream after the museum closed, and just sat down and take in my surroundings. Some people enjoying walking by the riverside, others waiting for their drone to bring their food/ drink order from the sky. It was truly mesmerising.

I wanted to have more energy for one last stop: the zhongshuge bookstore, but I was done for the day.

Fourteen hours day, one border crossing, and not enough time. But then again, that's always the point. Leaves you wanting more.

TCB xx